Week 1 Arrival in Antarctica

Tuesday 9 October 1973

Departed for Antarctica. Aircraft (C141) raised wheels at 0910 hours. On board were RB Thompson, Superintendent Antarctic Division and Gordon Nation, storeman with myself. We landed on the sea ice strip off McMurdo (after one non-landing calibration run) at 1430 hours. I was met by my predecessor Peter Frazer, who suggested a dog trip to Scott Base.

C141 Starlifter on the ice runway at McMurdo

The dogs fought once before moving and twice on the journey. They appeared to be poorly trained and out of condition. Eventually one dog was taken off the chain to save it from attack. I was then shown through the Base. It appeared to be functional and well maintained but lacked the finish that photographs had led me to expect.

After dinner I went for a walk up the hill to look down over the base. The gentle slope soon bought me out in a sweat and exposed my inability as yet to gauge the amount of clothing needed. On the way back to the base noticed a dog off its chain. Being not sure if this was normal, I mentioned it in the Mess and, to my chagrin, the senior technician, Phil Owen, showed more initiative than me, went outside and re-chained the bitch concerned.

Conditions at 0900 hours Bright sunshine, Wind 10mph Temperature -25.0°C

Ration Strength 14

Wednesday 10 October 1973

Spoke with Peter about various problems, most significant being possibilities of misbehaviour by my incoming team. Counted and took possession of various attractive, valuable or saleable stores. After lunch visited McMurdo and was introduced to various contacts in the US Navy, Military Air Command (MAC), and National Science Foundation (NSF). Discussed with RB Thompson, Peter Frazer and Jack Hoffman, various imperfections in a frame tent supplied to the Dry Valley Drilling Project (DVDP) and possible remedies. It was agreed that John Bitters should report to Jack Hoffmann, Drill Supervisor, for instructions as to how to modify the tent.

Returned to Scott Base and reviewed with RB Thompson problems which might arise with respect to:

1. Staff misbehaviour at McMurdo or elsewhere.

2. A snowballing social reciprocity with US organizations.

3. Cadging by NZ staff from US organizations

4. Dog care and training

Attended drinks and buffet laid on by outgoing Scott Base staff for outgoing US staffs and others. I spent the evening in the Leader’s office reading files.

Conditions at 0900 hours Fairly clear at first. Wind Easterly but veering to SW within 2 hours and increasing to 35 knots. Visibility 100 yards due to blowing snow. -20°C Weather cleared for the party. Wind South-East and 5 knots

Ration Strength 14

Thursday 11 October 1973

Morning showed 30 knot wind and poor visibility. Signalled Antarctic Division for details of availability of polar tents and with their reassurance was able to offer Jack Hoffmann of the DVDP two tents as standby shelter in the event that his frame tents proved unable to withstand the Antarctic winds. Discussed dogs and inspected dog gear with John Bitters. Continued to sort through items in the Officer-in-Charge (OIC’s) office.

Although the Starlifter (C141) bringing six of my team left Christchurch at 9 am the weather here refused to clear and it was forced to turn back – much to the disappointment of Major Peter Frazer my predecessor.

Attended an ice party in the afternoon. An hour’s brisk work by five men to fill two sledges. Most enjoyable! The work is hampered by the small ice fragments which shatter out along with the big lumps as the “cobra” pick bites into the face. They are not worth picking up and cause poor footing if simply ignored. If they are put on the sledge they can in time bond the bigger lumps into an unmanageable mass. The whole business needs work study. As we returned a full sized tanker appeared over the hill from McMurdo with a tractor driving behind it and attached to it as a brake. All tanks are now full.

I have been for a short run each evening so far. The problem is to get exercise without sweating.

Conditions at 0900 hours Whiteout Wind South-South-East and backing 15 knots. Temperature -15.0°C

Ration Strength 14

Friday 12 October 1973

I spent the day with maps and plans in the OIC’s office. Have catalogued plans and handed list of maps required for the season to the Superintendent. Had three short outings. First went to the ablutions block urine out-fall (the Pee Glacier) with a cobra bit and the assistance of George Turner, the outgoing mechanic, cut away enough green ice to get things flowing. At about 3.30pm Neville Copeland, the outgoing Postmaster, pointed out that one of our tracked vehicles had broken down on the ice. Neville and I went out and helped George Turner get it in. Finally Phil Southern, outgoing technician, reported that one of the dogs was loose and limping so John Bitters and I went over and had a look. It turned out to be Ivak, barely more than a pup. He had broken off his chain somehow and been bitten above the eye by one of the other dogs. John said it would heal without attention.

Film evening. I was able to take the first two reels only

Conditions at 0900 hours Winds up to 30 knots backing from South to North-East. Temperature -18°C. Visibility fair at times

Ration Strength Still 14 (unhappy Peter)

Saturday 13 October 1973

Day started clear with high overcast. It looked good for our incoming team members. In the morning I fought my way right around the outside of all the buildings, checking the tie-down guys and hatches. The base has taken its usual winter beating well. After morning tea, I helped John Bitters feed the dogs. Ivak is still limping and looking a bit sick. Chopping seal meat is a bit like chopping wood. It’s more a matter of hitting against the right block then hitting hard. After lunch we became doubtful about the chances of the plane managing to land, as visibility was down to 300-400 yards with light snowfall. However we went out to Williams Field and suddenly it materialized out of the snowdrift seemed to collapse onto the runway and then roared to a stop. Inside were Professor Tony Taylor, visiting psychologist, Shaun Norman Deputy IC, Bill Johnston - Base Engineer, Chris Wilkins - Electrician, Bob Grant - Mechanic, Tony Atkinson - Senior Technician, Ray Colliver - Cook and Stuart Clarke - Technician. They were delighted to be down and reported one or two spectacular moments in the turbulence on the way. After afternoon tea Bob Thompson held a discussion with John Hosiaux and Bill Johnson, outgoing and incoming engineers, and myself. It involved some minor changes to the works programme. Peter Frazer has finally got away. The handover is now in progress at last.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind North-North-East 15 knots Temperature -17.0°C

Ration Strength 21

Sunday 14 October 1973

A quiet day, overcast with occasional periods of wind causing a loss of low level visibility. Handover continues. I acted as house mouse to get some idea of the work involved. Drove RB Thompson, Superintendent to catch C141 leaving at 2100 hours. The incoming flight should have bought Garth Cowan the third base technician but he was not on it.

Conditions at 0900 hours Long still periods Temperature -12.0°C

Ration Strength 19

Week 2 Handover Complete

Monday 15 October 1973

Handover continues. Technicians spent the day exchanging metrological charts in the recorders and with a visit to the scientific station at Arrival Heights. Base Engineer shifted the power load between the two Caterpillar power packs and onto the Listers. Mechanics worked hard to clear the hangar of vehicles but the Caterpillar 920 Front End Loader had two flat tyres which were frozen into the deflated shape. Since they were tubeless they had to be thawed and moulded into shape before they could be inflated. Shaun (DIC) spent the day confirming details of field event plans with contacts at McMurdo. In the evening we had a striking demonstration of how dangerous this place could be to the careless. At 4.45pm the weather was clear and sunny with what looked like a thin fog out on the ice field moving north towards us. At 4.55pm visibility was down to 50 yards, wind speed had risen from 5 knots northerly to 40 knots SSW and the chill factor had moved into the lethal range.

Chris Wilkins, Electrician, had gone into the hangar without windproof clothing and had to cross the 20 yards between the hangar and the main buildings to get back. He had no trouble but found the experience unpleasant.

Within an hour and a half the wind had died and the sun came out and conditions were back to normal. A recreational trip with six people went up to Castle Rock to take photographs.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind 15 knots North-North-East Temperature -19.0°C

Ration Strength 19

Tuesday 16 October 1973

Maintenance staff handover now complete. John Bitters, Asst Maintenance Officer, replaced Peter Fowler, Driller, to enable the latter to sit university exams. Shaun Norman, Deputy, and I attended a meeting with Dave Bresneham NSF, Bill Sutherland, Navy McMurdo, Fred Wilson, Choyce Prewitt and Tom Childers VXE Helicopter Squadron, to make preliminary arrangements for Search and Rescue (SAR) training. The Americans gave an estimate of numbers and undertook to provide a vehicle and all equipment. I met Garth Cowan, Technician off the incoming flight and delivered Hosciaux and Turner, outgoing engineer and mechanic to it. Owens, outgoing senior technician was being delivered to the aircraft in a second vehicle when he met some US acquaintances who undertook to take him the rest of the way. He reached the aircraft and boarded it (according to Terminal Ops) but later got off the aircraft for some reason and was left behind.

Conditions going to the aircraft and back were difficult. Chill factor was in the dangerous area, the track was difficult to see and the vehicle got stuck in drifts several times. This evening the majority of Base staff has gone to McMurdo in the dodge to buy liquor and PX goods.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind East 10 knots Temperature -13.0°C

Ration Strength 18

Area around the Ross Sea

Wednesday 17 October 1973

It is now clear that Owens did not board yesterday’s aircraft. The truck he was in got blocked behind a large vehicle which was stuck in a snowdrift. Owens ran upwind across the snowfield and thumbed a ride from a passing tracked vehicle but by the time he got to the aircraft its doors were closed.

Bob Grant, mechanic, finally managed to inflate the tyres on the Caterpillar 920 Front End Loader today so the vehicles were cleared from the hangar. This enabled Gordon Nation, storeman, to commence sorting and laying out his stores ready for the field parties. Base Engineer checked through the entire Base fuelling system. Garth Cowan, the last technician to arrive is getting to grips with his part of the laboratory programme. Shaun Norman, prepared plans for a major caravan to Marble Point and a minor recreation trip to Cape Evans.

At 1845 hours a Starlifter came in with the Vanda party and the majority of the remaining Base Staff as follows: Rob (Tich) Gibson, Postmaster, John Warriner, PO Technician, Rob Chambers, Asst Postmaster, Mike Wing, Field Assistant, Fred Szydlik, Information Officer, Brian Fischer, Carpenter, Bill Whitley and Bob Newland, Assistant Maintenance Officers, Colin Monteath, SAR Instructor, Tony Smith and Peter Thompson, Vanda Technicians, Tony Bromley, Vanda Met Observer, and Ian Curphey, Vanda Leader. We dispatched Phil Owens and so are now a fairly big group with two sleeping in the hangar bunkroom.

Visibility on the run out to the airstrip and back was excellent. What a contrast to yesterday.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind North-East 15 knots Temperature -17.6°C

Ration Strength 30

Thursday 18 October 1973

A beautiful clear morning. First task was to get the new arrivals down to work. Vanda party commenced preparing their stores under direction of Ian Curphey. Maintenance officer and assistants were give list of broken stays, cracked windows and lifting battens. All ventilators were checked and cleared. Bill Johnson is very busy supervising all this. Mike Wing joined DVDP, and Shaun Norman with Colin Monteath walked and climbed all over the SAR training area. Peter Fowler has finished his exams and is back with DVDP. John Bitters now again proceeding with modifications to DVDP frame tents. I held a meeting to plan the renovation of the Vanda generating hut. After examining the alternative it was decided to recommend to the Superintendent that the hut be rebuilt rather than lined and extended. Responsibility tentatively allocated as follows:

• Ian Curphey and Brian Fischer to check timber is available. Ian for tie rods and guys, for setting up the generator and battery bank and installing waste exhaust heat recovery.

• Bill Johnson for fuel system

• Pin Reeves for general wiring, heating (excluding exhaust) switching and ventilation.

The incoming aircraft which was to take out Taylor, Copeland and Williams turned back as conditions deteriorated. Minor friction was apparent between one or two staff but not beyond control. Several of team visited McMurdo tonight.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind 14 knots North-North-East Temperature -24.0°C

Ration Strength 30

Friday 19 October 1973

A day of strong winds and driving snow with one or two breaks only. Very little outdoor work possible although we did manage to change the honey buckets (solid human waste from the toilets). Indoor work is rapidly reaching the point of frustration for one or other reason. Stuart Clarke had a dental appointment at McMurdo at 1400 hours and in one of the lulls in wind asked for permission to walk over the gap, which I gave. Within 10 minutes visibility was down to 20 yards and the wind was gusting 50 knots so I sent Shaun and Ian in the power-wagon after him. After half an hour Shaun rang in from the “Ham” hut about ²/₃ of the way to McMurdo and said that although walking conditions were not too bad it was difficult to get the truck through the snow-drifts. Shortly afterwards Stuart rang from the dentist’s dispensary. He had had no trouble and in fact covered the distance to McMurdo in less time than was taken by the vehicle. This morning at 0500 hours I was reading in bed in D Hut when I noticed a “baked insulation varnish” smell. I could find no fire so I called Bill Johnson who was late mouse. Eventually he discovered that the circulation fan in the Waterbury heater was overheating. He switched it off and started up the standby Coleman.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind South-South-East 40 knots Temperature -10.0°C

Ration Strength 29

Saturday 20 October 1973

The day dawned with blizzard conditions. Occasionally the wind gusted to 80 knots. I had the Carpenter and Maintenance officers endeavouring to list every snow leak but there were too many for this to be feasible. Then the weather eased but with a Met forecast promising further high winds in a few hours. Nevertheless we took the opportunity to free all the doors, dig out the exits and clear the ventilators. A brace had broken on the chimney stack for the main stove and this was renewed. The laboratory staff made their normal visits to external recording points. John Bitters had to shoot one of the dogs today. He was getting old and had lost a very large patch of hair on his back. He seemed to be in considerable distress. Another dog was badly savaged in a fight but after treatment by the McMurdo doctor seems to be recovering. We held our first fire rehearsal today. The only lesson was that we must have an up-to-date nominal roll at the assembly point. Finally we had a convivial dinner topped off with several bottles of Sauterne left by the outgoing party. Ray Colliver, Cook, gave a talk on table wines in general and Sauterne in particular.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind South 65 knots Temperature -8.0°C

Rations Strength 29

Sunday 21 October 1973

At 0310 hours three of the old hands rang from McMurdo they had tried to walk home but, so they said, found the conditions too severe. Wind speed was 30 knots, Temperature -10ºC, chill condition in the increasing danger zone. I rang McMurdo met office and was told that the Captain there had declared a “Condition One” – meaning no one should go outside. Reluctantly gave permission for the men to spend the night there.

The Cape Evans recreation party spent the morning preparing for their trip but a sudden deterioration just as they were about to go persuaded them to call it off. The weather then cleared so I organized an ice party. We are still not working efficiently at this. Furthermore the sledges need repair and the dozer got stuck in a crack, giving some trouble before we finally had it and our ice cargo on the move.

Held a discussion in the evening with Bill Johnson to fix work priorities and arrange occupation for our transients. Antarctic Division has vetoed our plan for pre fabricating the Vanda Hut.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind East 10 knots Temperature -8.0°C

Ration Strength 29

Week 3. The Weather Deteriorates

Monday 22 October 1973

Laboratory routine proceeds as usual; a visit to Arrival Heights to check equipment and collect results; processing of film from the ionosonde; chemicals exposed to collect C0² for isotope analysis; metrological records collected and so on. Base Maintenance also continues. The carpenter and his assistants are making good the fit around doors and hatches, base engineer carried out the weekly check and oil change on the working diesel. Post Office has been well patronized by Americans, drillers and Army leaders. We are held up on modifications to the DVDP tent but not for long I hope. This morning Shaun Norman, Deputy, and I attended a meeting to arrange plans for a “wagon train” taking the drill rig across the ice to Marble Point. Scott Base is to provide 3 scouts in return for a 600lb share of the payload. We will also provide back-up radio.

This afternoon we had a second meeting with Lt Cdr Tom Chider the US helicopter king, to agree a system of accounting for helicopter flying hours and get some idea of loads and flying time for various trips. This evening we had our fuel tanks topped up and Bill Johnson was just about to take a well earned break when the Waterbury heater in the laboratory failed. He and Chris Wilkins, electrician, were still trying to effect repairs at midnight.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind South-South-East 25 knots Temperature -13.6°C

Ration Strength 29

The general area around Scott Base which is located on Ross Island

Tuesday 23 October 1973

A beautiful clear day but no aircraft can get in as the snow cutters haven’t even opened the road to the strip, let alone cleared the strip itself. We will be pretty crowded when they do arrive. Base scientific and maintenance programmes continue. The Post Office gave an estimate that in two weeks they would be held up for new equipment such as the teleprinters. Vanda party is checking tents and sledges and making a few minor repairs. The incinerator has been cleared out but will never burn well without a chimney height increase or a blower. Also it will fill with snow every storm we get and cause a lot of dirty and tedious work. I have revised instructions for mice. Tonight most of the Base went to McMurdo for a sauna bath. I needed it after a day in the incinerator.

Had a tussle with John Bitters who wanted to blow the “Pee” Glacier whereas I wanted the dogs exercised. Eventually I was able to persuade him.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind North-North-East 10 knots Temperature -16.0°C

Ration Strength 29

Wednesday 24 October 1973

The DVDP caravan to Marble Point got away this morning at about 0800 hours. They had an uneventful but uncomfortable trip and were still 20 miles from the Base on the return trip at midnight.

At about 0900 hours the snow on the roof of the corridors suddenly began to melt. The Base staff got hurriedly organised with the Science Technicians sweeping the roof, the Engineers staff operating dozers and bucket and everybody else shovelling out the gaps between huts on the North side of the cold corridor.

Otherwise normal data collection and Base maintenance. Titch Gibson, Postmaster was off sick for one day with flu. Tony Taylor was also suffering.

Conditions at 0900 hours No wind Temperature -8.0°C

Ration Strength 29

Thursday 25 October 1973

Jack Hoffman, Drill Supervisor, made Mike Wing, winter dog handler applicant available for dog handling practice or other duties. The dogs need a run and Cape Evans Hut should be surveyed for necessary repairs so I decided to send John Bitters with Bill Whitely and the other two applicants with a dog team. Unfortunately he objected claiming I was rushing matters. After a call to Harry MacDonald in Christchurch I agreed to postpone the trip until tomorrow. Then Bitters presented me with a trip plan in script which he said he would get typed. I told him this was unnecessary as it was quite clear. Later I met the Postmaster who had just finished typing it for him in duplicate. No doubt he felt two copies were necessary but we again had sharp words. Perhaps matters will settle down after the trip.

We had a large influx of new arrivals today – 11 in all. Since the helicopters will not fly for another five days it is going to be difficult to keep everyone busy. Events 1, 3 & 6 (Waikato) have arrived and all field assistants.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind North-East 5 knots Temperature -9.4°C

Ration Strength 41

Friday 26 October 1973

John Bitters and the dog party got away. Bill Johnson and Chris Wilkins spent the morning repairing the kitchen diesel-beck, Brian Fischer put new duckboards in the cold porch between F and K Huts, Shaun Norman saw all Event Leaders to find out what they wanted to do pending helicopter availability and we held an ice party. I attended a meeting after lunch at McMurdo to arrange cargo priorities inward. Since this had already been done by Christchurch Antarctic Division and I agreed with their proposals, it was not necessary for me to speak.

Cape Evans Hut

In the afternoon weather conditions deteriorated but John Bitters came through on schedule. He is holed up at Cape Evans with plenty of food and fuel. In the evening we had talks by Event leaders about what they are doing. After that a conference on the Vanda works programme. I think we are now all pretty clear about what is to be done there.

Conditions at 0900 hours No wind

Ration Strength 37

Saturday 27 October 1973

The day dawned with near blizzard conditions. With the base crowded and everybody cooped up inside it is difficult to get on with the job. Still we are doing our best as follows:

Laboratory staff & Post Office – normal routine

Base maintenance staff – routine plus plumbing faults

Field assistants – general spring clean

Vanda Party – prefabricating and preparing for works programme.

Two deficiencies in our training programme seem to have been disclosed

1. We have no one with medical attendant training once Ian Cupley goes to Vanda yet the dispensary is full of medicaments. The necessary information is in the manual of first aid but no one now has the time to study it and it would have been so easy to get a little training before leaving New Zealand.

2. We have no one who can use explosives once John Bitters leaves. The most efficient way of getting rid of the “Pee glacier” is to place a few small charges in it and shatter it.

Colin Monteath’s birthday – we have baked a cake and will have wine with the evening meal.

John Bitters of Cape Evans party came up on schedule. The weather at Evans is not good and as they have plenty of fuel and food they are staying put until it improves.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind South 30 knots Temperature -9.0°C

Ration Strength 37

Sunday 28 October 1973

A quiet day. In the morning the weather was bad so our planned recreational trips were cancelled. Cape Evans party also had bad weather but as the forecast was for an improvement they expected to get away some time during the day on their return journey.

Here at Scott Base the weather did improve and a number of the inhabitants went walking or ski-ing around the area.

Bill Johnson and I have heavy colds. Shaun Norman has one arm in a sling and the other strapped to his chest as the result of a fall. Ray Colliver has a cold.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind West 42 knots Temperature -7.9°C

Ration Strength 37

Week 4. Blowing the “Pee Glacier”

Monday 29 October 1973

Skua’s are becoming a common sight. There were three in the pressure ridges this morning. John Bitters and the Cape Evans party with dogs arrived back late Sunday night. Mike Wing has been bitten in the knee but not seriously. Bitters has recommended Newland as his replacement. Dr Torii (Japan) of JARE is spending a few nights with us. He is a most pleasant guest but is worried by the non-arrival of his equipment. John Bitters placed a few small charges in the ‘Pee’ Glacier and blew a channel through it but more needs to be done. With the delay in helicopter availability, Shaun Norman has had to plan an interim programme with event leaders as follows

Event 1 (Less Rothery) Reconnaissance of Erebus Glacier tongue by SnoTrac

Event 2 (Plus Keys) Geological reconnaissance and setting out salt buckets.

Late in the day a good deal of cargo unexpectedly arrived and by working Gordon Nation well into the night it will be possible to put the Vanda party and Event 6 out to Marble Point. This will give us the leverage to get an early allocation of helicopter hours so all are busy getting ready.

Cargo being unloaded at McMurdo

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind South-East 8 knots Temperature -12.2°C

Ration Strength 35

Tuesday 30 October 1973

John Warriner’s birthday but Ray Colliver forgot to ice the cake. The party for Marble Point, including Rob Grant and myself as drivers, got away at 1130 hours with a favourable Met forecast. We will have to get a lot better at the business of preparing and moving to a timetable. It is not a problem when travelling by vehicle but when we start to use helicopters we will have to be ready at the stated time. VXE-6 Squadron is still having problems getting the helicopters operational. There were no aircraft in from Christchurch.

The Marble Point party arrived at 1800 hours after an uneventful trip including a few minutes photographing seals with young. After a hurried meal Rob Grant and I started back and in perfect weather had a simple but rather boring trip, arriving back at Base at 0230 hours. On unpacking I was ashamed to find that the chaps who had packed our sledge whilst Rob and I were eating had left out both the radio and my personal survival pack. Of course it was my fault. I should have checked.

Base Survival & Rescue training had got underway.

Event 3 reported bad weather at Royds with wind gusts to 50 knots

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind East 8 knots Temperature -12.9°C

Ration Strength 30

Wednesday 31 October 1973

Alan Dawrant the Post Office Technician from the last team was released and flew out today. Shaun Norman and I viewed the Survival and Rescue instructional course in the morning. There was a good deal of practical activity and the senior National Science Foundation (NSF) officer present said he was very happy with both the course content and the standard of instruction. John Bitters again attacked the Pee Glacier, this time successfully. The Royds party (Event 3) have returned and are affecting minor repairs to gear. Event 7 & 11 arrived by air at about 2200 hours unannounced. I had enquired not half an hour before the aircraft landed and no one at this end knew who was on the aircraft.

Conditions at 0900 hours No wind -4.2°C

Ration Strength 33

The Scott Base Post Office

Thursday 1 November 1973

This morning we were able to get Brian Fischer away from Scott Base to Vanda in a helicopter together with a full load of building materials. The helicopter also moved the Marble Point remaining staff to Vanda.

We held a fire practice which threw up several shortcomings; in particular three people turned up at the rendezvous inadequately dressed and both the nominal roll and the warning out book were left behind.

Dr Torii, still with us, is becoming very worried about his equipment which has still not arrived. This evening we entertained first Cdr Tom Fitzpatrick in charge of ship operations and then Lyle McGuiness US DVDP co-ordinator. Following that we held a works programme meeting with Shaun Norman, Bill Johnson, Derrick Hobby and myself. I think we are all clear as to what needs doing and only await materials in a few cases. The SAR instructors having spent the night in igloos in the field had a day sorting gear preparing for the next course and doing their washing.

The ionosonde broke down but was repaired within two hours. The Auckland University people are being most helpful. Frank Blair is working on the Base fuel system, Steve Warder on the electric field mill and Gerry Straka is helping the laboratory with the routine reduction and analysis of data.

Conditions at 0900 hours Temperature -9.1°C

Ration Strength 39

Friday 2 November 1973

This morning Events 1 and 3 having now received their technical equipment set out for Marble Point in SnoTracs in an effort once again to seize a chance to be on-moved to Vanda. The met forecast was so so predicting cloudy skies, occasional snow showers and open water further south than usual.

Shaun held the party for an hour and finally let it go. Later in the day they reported in safely from Marble Point by radio. We also got a heavy load of building materials away by helo from Base. Event 7, Ron Heath, with the aid of a US ice drill, Stuart Clarke and Bob Newland, installed his equipment and is now ready to leave.

John Bitters ran the dogs and the usual Base maintenance proceeded. Shaun and I attended a helo allocation meeting in the afternoon.

Capt Fowler was not present and I was not called upon to speak. It was interesting to hear the Americans angrily decrying their field radios and saying they ought to have radio’s like ours.

Gordon Nation is very busy sorting all the inwards cargo and trying to make issues at the same time.

Cargo operations at Williams Field

This evening we had two helo pilots to dinner. They seemed nice enough lads and quite interested in what we are doing. Ski club met tonight for the first time.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind South-West 20 knots Temperature -5.8°C

Ration Strength 31

Saturday 3 November 1973

By breakfast the returning party from Marble Point had not arrived. Event 1 at Marble Point reported in however and said the returning party had left at 2230 hours yesterday intending to camp if the threatened bad weather struck and told us to expect them at Base at about 1800 hours today. The returning party did not keep either of its radio schedules so at 1400 hours I dispatched a party, which included myself, to meet them. We took the Nodwell loaded by the US to our SAR instructional team and the Dodge well-deck with a toboggan and sledge loaded. We met the returning party 15 miles from McMurdo and started back after reporting to Base by radio. The returning party’s radio had failed. After about 5 miles the weather had deteriorated to the point where we could make no progress. The wind was gusting to an estimated 50 knots and visibility was about 20 feet. There was a danger we would become separated so I decided to make camp.

US Nodwell Fire Tractor

Next morning we had a little difficulty getting the Nodwell and SnoTracs started but managed to get moving by midday and came home without incident. As a result of this exercise we missed a wine mess with Capt Fowler.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind South-East 20 knots Temperature -11.6°C

Ration Strength 31

Sunday 4 November 1973

Capt Fowler has now invited us to a wine mess on Saturday 10^th November. After our trip out onto the ice we dried and checked our gear and it became apparent that I had not controlled the issues properly at the time of our departure. Although it seems nothing has been lost I have drafted standing instructions to cover similar future exercises.

Ron Heath was delivered to a departing Hercules C130 at Williams Field. It taxied to the end of the field, waited 15 minutes and then taxied back with a faulty generator. Finally it got away 4 hours later.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind East 25 knots Temperature -10.5

Ration Strength 31

Week 5. An unplanned cut in helicopter hours

Monday 5 November 1973

Today we still had no helicopters flying. A helo has broken down at Cape Crozier and the weather has not been good. At one stage it seemed likely the NSF would request permission to capture 25 penguins at Cape Royds. This would not have been acceptable to NZ but, as it turned out, the request was never made.

In the evening we had several Americans to dinner including Lt David Console the local doctor and Lt Carmen the VXE Squadron survival instructor. Dr Torii was also with us. The evening ended with fireworks (old flares)

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind North-North-East 10 knots Temperature -10.0°C

Ration Strength 31

Tuesday 6 November 1973

Today Shaun Norman and I attended a helicopter priorities meeting. Capt Fowler was not present and I had no need to speak. Once the present crucial helo lift shortage is over I will leave these meetings to Shaun. The Survival and Rescue instructors have now launched their second course. Base Maintenance staff current project is a mini production line making dexion angle corner brackets for Vanda.

John Bitters spent the day with Alistair Watson the veterinarian from Massey University, who is here with the Americans. They tranquillised three of the dogs and worked out a technique for sampling and examining the rest later in the month.

Auckland University people are still giving most useful assistance. Victoria however have almost run out of useful work, although they remain most willing to be helpful. The laboratory seems to be quietly efficient. I suspect this is much to the credit of Tony Atkinson.

Tonight we were visited by four members of the staff of Holmes and Narver who were passing through McMurdo on their way to assist with the completion of South Pole Station. One of them was the grandson of Admiral Byrd. (Bob Ryder)

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind South-East 18 knots Temperature -9.1°C

Ration Strength 31

Scott Base had Huskies to do some of the haulage

Wednesday 7 November 1973

Today we organised the waiting field people to go with John Bitters and clear out the meat cave. It was Base maintenance staff’s turn for mouse duties so only routine maintenance was done.

The SAR course continues. The Laboratory as always is well on top of the job and were able to release Stuart Clarke to escort some visiting Japanese to the ice caves. They were sponsored by Dr Torii who is still with us.

Early this morning we learned that the helicopter which is broken down at Cape Crozier had blown over and might take some time to repair. I warned the Navy Executive Officer that in anticipation of the consequences of this further set-back I would now have to consider alternatives for our various field events viz:

1. Cancellation and return to NZ of party, or

2. Substitute project if this could be arranged, or

3. Surface transport insertion if feasible.

I explained that I would have to advise the Superintendent of the situation. This communication was received without noticeable enthusiasm.

Late this afternoon Titch Gibson the Postmaster drew my attention to our first serious personality problem.

Our two Victoria University girls, Mrs Janet Crump and Mrs Rosemary Kyle arrived today. There is a strong smell of hair oil in the ablution block.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind East-South-East 8 knots Temperature -6.9°C

Ration Strength 33

Thursday 8 November 1973

Today was Tony Smith’s birthday but we were unable to get him on the radio to receive his “singing telegram” because of the heavy traffic consequent on Shaun’s efforts to get space for our people on the two helo’s flying. At least we were able to get all snow clearance with the bucket and dozer. This has made a tremendous difference. One of the ice sledges has torn a track completely off and had to be emptied, tipped on its side and re-welded.

Derrick Hobby, visiting from Antarctic Division, sat “Production Management” for his institute exams. A steering drum disc on one of the SnoTracs has been re-welded. This was a tricky weld of cast iron and may not be successful. The Laboratory staff is busy with their monthly analysis. Bill Johnson and his maintenance men stripped the President range and set about cleaning it. They were vacuuming up the last few handfuls of soot when the bag split. This separated the Base residents into two easily recognizable groups: those who were absent and those who were present when the soot hit the fan.

Meantime, on my way to the airstrip to collect Event 2, the rest of Event 9 and the two RNZAF observers, I had somehow missed the road and was forging across virgin snow afraid to stop whilst various well meaning Americans ran along snow ridges waving their arms and mouthing soundless instructions. Hurdling a last snow bank, I arrived on the tarmac by the season’s most original route so far.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind North 8 knots Temperature -5.6°C

Ration Strength 40

Friday 9 November 1973

Lat night in the middle of a film showing we received a telephone call to say that, unexpectedly, a helicopter was available to take Event 11 to Vanda. With a pattering and clumping of first slippers and then mukluks they scurried out onto the pad, were loaded aboard with their gear and flew off into what purports to be sunset.

The maintenance staff is frantically busy preparing a SnoTrac for use by the party going up to Royds to count the penguins. The recent Victoria University arrivals and Event 2 are preparing for their “trial camp-out”. We have insisted on this for the longer-range parties, over-ruling some mild protest.

The helicopter which delivered Event 11, or another, has now moved all the people from Marble Point to Vanda also. Today at the helicopter allocation meeting however we were told that the allotted totals for ourselves and others might be reduced by as much as 40%. Such a reduction would mean that we could do little more that complete what we have started. I hope it won’t come to that but meantime we are considering what we can do without helicopters – not much I’m afraid. It all points to the desirability of maintaining as much National independence as we can.

Tonight I attended the presentation to the NSF by Dr Torii of a long schedule of laboratory equipment and then went on with Capt Fowler to the ceremony to open the new TV station. Meantime Shaun is at another helicopter planning meeting.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind South-East 14 knots Temperature -9.3°C

Ration Strength 40

Saturday 10 November 1973

At the helicopter planning meeting last might, it appeared there was general agreement that all helicopter users would have to take a ¹/₁₆^th cut in their allocation of hours. So much for my hopes of a fabulous year! The party looking at the Royds Hut reported in. They had been able to motor all the way to Cape Royds as there was a stretch of solid ice along the coast. Nevertheless they had wisely motored back to spend the night at Cape Evans. It is a good team and should get us an accurate count of the penguins.

This afternoon we held an ice collecting party and once again had difficulty finding clean ice. Whilst doing this job we noticed a tanker broken down on the hill road to McMurdo. It had come over to refuel us and then the differential had failed. We should have our own backup system for this sort of essential supply. In a real emergency I suppose we could bring it over in drums.

Just at dinner time a helicopter arrived from Vanda. It brought Frank Blair back, having done his job, and also two polar tents and two sleeping bags found over there by Ian Cuphey. This gets us out of quite a hole as we had issued the last of each. After dinner we attended a wine and cheese evening at the US Navy Officers Mess.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind East-North-East 8 knots Temperature -14.3°C

Ration Strength 38

Sunday 11 November 1973

A good bit of activity today. Phil Kyle got away in the morning with Sam Treves on their expedition up Erebus. Event 2 took off for Mt Dromedary at 1600 hours, Frank Blair left for New Zealand at 1730 hours by Starlifter, Harry Keys and Ken Blackwood took 1000 lbs of VUWAE gear to Marble Point and then suddenly, at 1830 hours Shaun got a chance to go up Erebus with a helicopter taking equipment up to Treves and Kyle.

We were able to help the Americans out with the movement of passengers to the Starlifter. Meantime, as there was no house mouse, I cooked Sunday dinner. At 1800 hours I was not in a position to strike the dinner bell and instead issued the following status report:

Soup - ready

Potatoes - slightly burned

Roast - crisp

Peas – expect to be ready in 35 minutes

Diners were invited to make their own arrangements taking cognisance of the facts.

Dr Torii has now also left us and is in the field with the drillers.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind North-East 8 knots Temperature -15.6°C

Ration Strength 29

Week 6. It’s a squeeze at Vanda

Monday 12 November 1973

At last we have all our field parties away from the Base. Janet Crump with Events 8 & 9 is at Shapeless Mountains, Phil Kyle with Ross Cooper up Erebus, Peter Blattner with Event 2 at Dromedary and Events 1, 3 & 11 at Vanda. The Royds penguin count party was making its way back this morning. Shaun and I spent the rest of the day after Events 8 & 9 flew off, in tiding up the administration and paper work. Bill Johnson carried out the weekly switch of load between generators and subsequent oil and filter changes. Unexpectedly a US front end loader exactly like our own appeared over the hill with 5000 lbs of cargo for Gordon Nation. It was a kindly gesture but the driver couldn’t manage the hill. Gordon drives over it every second day with our loader but we had to tow this chap back with the D4.

A USARP scientist, Ian Williams arrived to continue work on the Erebus Glacier Tongue started by John Fenwick of Event 1. His toboggan broke down about half way between Williams Field and Scott Base and he came trudging in on foot.

Just before dinner tonight the Royds penguin party arrived. They had had fabulous weather but nevertheless had taken no chances with a sea-ice breakout returning each night to Cape Evans. They had checked and double checked their count and were confident their figure would not be far out (about 2000).

Chris Hendy arrived back from the drill site for dinner and a day’s clean up before moving to McMurdo.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind North-East 5 knots Temperature -8.3°C

Ration Strength 28

Tuesday 13 November 1973

All field Events reported in at the scheduled times. None of them are doing much work as they, like us are experiencing strong winds. Shaun spent the day on the radio (about 2 hours) at the helicopter allocations meeting (2 hours), preparing a brief statement of our field programme with numbers and dated movements for Ernest Herbst of NSF and conferring with Lt Carmen of Para Search and Rescue.

In the morning Bill Johnson and I scoured the McMurdo rubbish dump for something with which to repair the ice sledge runners but were unsuccessful.

Fred Szydlik and I spent some time trying to work out Events launch into a newsworthy press release. Laboratory and PO carried out their normal routine as did the Maintenance staff. To record today’s maintenance routine as being typical:

• Bill Johnson tried to determine why the Post Office workroom is always hot whilst the customer’s space is always cold and worked out a proposal to rectify this. He also pulled the incinerator blower casing off to see how it worked and how it should be installed.

• Bill Whitley made steps for the weather mast.

• Bob Newland sorted, repaired and placed batteries on charge.

• Chris Wilkins repaired the battery charger.

• John Bitters worked with the vet (Alastair Watson) taking blood samples from the dogs and examining them.

• Bob Grant repaired the Landrover and D4.

• I spent the day sorting and listing maps.

Chris Hendy and John Gumbley have now moved across to McMurdo to work on drill cores at the Earth Science Laboratory.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind South 30 knots Temperature -6.0°C

Ration Strength 26

Wednesday 14 November 1973

Since there is still sea-ice all the way to Royds we decided to send a second party up to it in the SnoTrac. Bill Whitley is in charge with Stuart Clarke, Titch Gibson and Ray Pitcher. The party's primary task is to repair and clean out the Cape Evans and Royds huts. A secondary task is to recount the penguins. Shaun held the party all day yesterday because of threatening weather but finally we decided to let it go. A party of USARP people failed to make radio contact on time and as helicopters couldn't reach the exact spot where they were believed to be located we were asked to provide a search party to go in on foot. Ian Curphley and Tony Bromley were nominated and taken to the nearest feasible point by air. However as it happened the weather cleared and the USARP party were reached by a second helicopter before our two men could get to them.

Scott’s last expedition hut at Cape Evans 

Starting tonight, three of our Base staff including myself are to attend one of Colin Monteath's survival courses. Event 2 did not make radio contact this morning. Bob Newland slipped on some ice and cut his elbow so badly that the McMurdo doctor has put it in a splint. Bill Johnson is wrestling with the water supply to the ablution block. Some chips of wood (probably off the ice sledges) have got into the pump.

This morning was fine with sunshine so we all stopped normal work to sweep the roof. It has now been snowing gently for the last four hours. Such is life.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind West-North-West 8 knots Temperature -2.6°C

Ration Strength 23

NZ Vanda Station located in the Dry Valleys on the mainland

Thursday 15 November 1973

This morning we still could not make direct contact with Event 2 but Vanda was able to identify signals which they made by whistling into the hand piece. Accordingly we know that they are alright but have radio trouble.

Late last night Derrick Hobby arrived back from Vanda. He reports that the place is very crowded and all are eagerly awaiting fresh rations. They have had rather disorganized work priorities there, mainly because we here have been taking every opportunity to squeeze cargo onto and Vanda bound helicopter that has spare capacity. We have waiting cargo here at Scott Base and also at the McMurdo pad. What can be squeezed in is frequently not what Vanda wants but nevertheless we cannot afford to waste any airlift.

John Bitters was able to locate some steel channel in McMurdo to repair the ice sledges and although we offered to pay it was promptly given to us without charge. I have been to the survival course all day and at 1700 hours when our course arrived back at Base we were surprised to see Bill Johnson and Gordon Nation on the roof sweeping frantically. The temperature had crept above freezing and great pools of water had formed between the battens. Conscripting a passing American we all got madly at it and had it fairly dry by 1800 hours. Then the temperature fell and the wind picked up and liberally recovered it. I attended the survival course evening session until 2200 hours.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind East-North-East 7 knots Temperature -2.4°C

Ration Strength 23

Friday 16 November 1973

This morning we had 30 knot winds so the early session of the survival course was cancelled. As the ice sledges were getting low we collected ice instead. It was intrepid work standing on slippery ice using a power pick in a 30 knot wind. With members away from the Post Office, Laboratory and Base Maintenance, the place seems almost empty but everyone is pretty busy nevertheless.

At 1330 hours the survival course got started again. Conditions gradually improved and we had a very pleasant evening practicing crevasse rescues and building snow shelters in which we stayed the night.

During the day the Erebus party with Phil Kyle and Ross Cooper had a frustrating time. Their special seismograph for recording on the peak broke down and the output meter on their radio froze. They thought their radio had failed and were gloomily expecting a recall helicopter to come and snatch them off the mountain. Naturally they were delighted when at the second attempt they made contact loud and clear.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind South 21 knots Temperature -8.8°C

Ration Strength 20

Saturday 17 November 1973

The survival course ended this morning and all returned to Base. The US members of the course were four servicemen who were neither very fit nor very keen. Anybody may face a survival situation but it was disturbing to find that one of them expects to be “detailed off” to attend the para rescue course.

With a day of good weather both long range parties (Event 2 and Event 8/9) are out of their tents and at work. The inadequate communication link with Event 2 is a cause for concern. The Royds party from Base has moved back to Royds from Evans. Meantime the skeleton crew in Base can do little more than attend to routine.

John Bitters took the dogs for a run for the benefit of some visiting US photographers and as part of the effort to get them fit.

John Warriner spent the night working on the transmitter used on the New Zealand link. He is now satisfied with its performance. He is conscientious in his own way and I think we can cope with the problem he sometimes presents.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind South-East 14 knots Temperature -4.2°C

Ration Strength 20

Sunday 18 November 1973

Since my assigned mouse had still not returned from Cape Royds I again became chief cook. It was a lot easier this time with 20 residents instead of 40 and about 8 of those either absent on course with the Para Rescue people or eating with US friends.

Last night John Bitters was made an honorary US Navy Chief Petty Officer and the consequent celebrations reduced the places at breakfast to five only.

Most of us had a quiet day but Shaun was busy as usual. There was the usual succession of radio contacts with their requests and queries and then at about 1600 hours the weather lifted. The helicopters began flying at once and within an hour Chris Wilkins was on his way to Vanda. Apparently there was a lightening handover because by ten o’clock Pin Reeves rang from McMurdo. He had a frustrating 3 weeks wiring up Vanda Station but despite a seven day hang-up at Marble Point had made fair progress. He estimates that Chris would complete the job in less than two weeks.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind East-North-East 8 knots Temperature -6.3°C

Ration Strength 15

Week 7. Counting Penguins at Cape Royds

Monday 19 November 1973

Late last night the Royds party got in. They had difficulty in finding their way across the sea ice from Cape Evans in a light snowfall and whiteout. Shaun spent a good bit of the time on the radio trying to “talk them in” but conditions were so bad that they felt obliged to follow the coast all the way. Their SnoTrac had split a jockey wheel and they were only able to proceed very slowly. Nevertheless about midnight they pulled up in front of the hangar and wandered in to bed. They had counted about 3000 penguins, many more than the previous party but I was not happy with the wide differences between their individual results.

Adelie Penguins at Cape Royds

During the day Tony Bromley arrived from Vanda. He had severe earache and Ian Curphey sent him out for treatment.

It was reported to me that the party which had proceeded to Royds with Colin Monteath had completely ruined a Nansen sledge so I held an informal inquiry. It seems that this type of sledge is meant for light loads and walking speeds. I had not warned Colin to limit either his speed or his load, so the fault is mine, if fault is there. I was unaware of the limitations of this sledge. I decided to send a third party to Royds (myself included) to make yet another count of the penguins.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind East-North-East 2 knots Temperature -6.0°C

Ration Strength 20

Tuesday 20 November 1973

My party to repeat the penguin count was preparing to depart in the morning when Jack Hoffman arrived. He had two problems. First he was anxious to check that the matter of replacing the drillers was in hand and second he requested assistance with his catering. I will report to the Superintendent and get Ray Colliver to Vanda at the first opportunity.

Our party drove up to Cape Royds in clear weather and counted the penguins (2175) returning to Evans for the night. Event 17 (Para Rescue) was moved from here to the Dias.

Later in the day Ian Curphey and Chris Wilkins, who were visiting a met screen, made contact with it. The Postmaster, Titch, is having trouble with the people from McMurdo (Kiwi and US) wanting to place more than one call per week and also out of schedule. Whilst my party was away with Ray Colliver, the cook, the Base catering was done first by Pin Reeves and then by Stuart Clarke. Both were excellent according to report.

The water pump on the N^o2 Caterpillar began to leak copiously during the night but the duty mouse detected the fault and the switch to N^o1 was made smoothly and in good time.

John Bitters severely sprained his knee when the dogs started unexpectedly with the trace around his lower leg.

Conditions at 0900 hours Calm Temperature -5.8

Ration Strength 15

Wednesday 21 November 1973

Shaun made continuous efforts to have Event 2 and Events 8/9 moved today before Thanksgiving Day but was unsuccessful. When the weather was good here it was poor where the Events were.

My Royds party awoke to falling snow and reduced visibility but nevertheless packed up to return to the rookery. The weather cleared, we counted again (2187) and returned to Scott Base by way of Turks Head where Warren Featherston hopes to take a number of seals. We counted 250 seals around the feature. Also on the trip we counted 77 Emperors.

Emperor Penguins with Skua overhead

During the day an aircraft arrived from Christchurch with on it; Haroun Tazieff (France) Adrian Field (Waikato) and Paul Luckman (Victoria). The following departed, Derrick Hobby and Ray Pitcher (Antarctic Division) and Pin Reeves (previous year’s electrician).

During our absence we received a report that John Bitters might have to be evacuated to NZ but this later proved to be an exaggeration. In the evening Haroun Tazieff showed films he had made of volcanos all over the world. Base staff was most impressed and have asked for a return session.

My Royds party reached Base just after midnight.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind North-East 8 knots Temperature -8.2°C

Ration Strength 19

Thursday 22 November 1973

This being US Thanksgiving Day we were all invited to McMurdo for dinner. Only about three people took advantage of the offer but fortunately the SAR instructors arrived back from their para-rescue course in the dry valleys and were just in time for dinner so our representation looked reasonable.

The day was spent planning re-supply trips for Phil Kyle on Erebus, Peter Blattner (Event 2) on Dromedary and Janet Crump (Events 8/9) on Shapeless. In the evening a group took the dogs for a long run (about 12 miles). Shaun Norman, Bob Chambers and Bob Grant drove up to Cape Royds and counted the penguins once more (2080). They left at 1400 hours and were back by 2350 hours.

John Warriner flew over to Vanda with the Alpeco Radio and had it in operation this evening. It worked well but each time he transmits his voice is backed by an irritating whistle. I have been keeping the radio schedules in Shaun’s absence and have had it brought home to me what a lot of inconvenience is caused by interference around Scott Base.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind North-West 15 knots Temperature -6.0°C

Ration Strength 23

Friday 23 November 1973

In the morning we had trouble communicating with Event 2 again but finally ascertained that their weather was poor. Conditions on Erebus were impossible but Shapeless was clear so we were able to re-supply Janet Crump’s group and get John McPherson, Harry Keys and Rosemary Kyle moved on to Mount Crean. With that organised I climbed Crater Hill for exercise and thought I could see open water due West. I asked Shaun to check with the helicopter pilots.

In the afternoon the Canterbury party arrived. It comprised Paul Sagar, Leader, Chris Paulin, John Earlie and Joy Woods. Also on the plane was John Shaw of Longyear. The plane was due in at 1330 hours but suddenly at 1235 hours we had a call from McMurdo saying that it would land at 1305 hours. I was away in the Dodge in five minutes but even so encountered the usual problem of getting clearance to drive along the runway. I was to be met where the road debouches onto the runway but, inevitably, no one was there so I climbed onto the snow banks looked for the aircraft or traffic marshals and finding neither drove quickly along the runway to the tarmac. In future I think we will meet the aircraft in a SnoTrac.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind North-North-East 15 knots Temperature -12.2°C

Ration Strength 27

Saturday 24 November 1973

A successful day. Event 2 at Dromedary were re-supplied and are now in radio contact by voice. We have not yet identified their radio problem.

Haroun Tazieff and Sam Treves were delivered to Phil Kyles Erebus Camp late in the day. John Shaw just managed to capture a helicopter unexpectedly departing for Vanda and is now at the drill site.

I asked the Cape Bird (Canterbury) party to do one or two little chores around the Base like cleaning dust off the ventilation ducts. They are pleasant young people but their apparent inability to be thorough doesn’t auger well for their safety in any but a routine situation. I therefore decided to send Bill Johnson with them to check out the Bird Hut and see they were properly settled.

Cape Bird looking south

We held our usual briefing in the afternoon and about seven staff and visitors went for a run with the dogs in the evening. John Bitters is now in plaster and it is clear he will have to be sent home. I have still not received the doctor’s report but his injury occurred when he was taking a NZ loader and an American for a recreational trip. He had gone to the front dogs to untangle a lead when the dogs jumped away. His leg got twisted in the centre trace and he was dragged several yards injuring his knee.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind North-East 5 knots Temperature -10.3°C

Ration Strength 27

Sunday 25 November 1973

We had a customary late start but just at midday Phil Kyle, Haroun Tazieff and Ross Cooper arrived. Phil and Ross looked pretty tired after a fortnight of high altitudes in the -20ºC to 30ºC’s. Then just at 1400 hours we were invited to send the Cape Bird party to the McMurdo heli-pad. They duly reported in from Cape Bird 2 hours later.

We are getting a number of Americans arriving unexpectedly these Sundays and asking if anyone will show them through the ice caves. Somewhat naturally the glamour has gone off this for our chaps who have their own plans for Sunday.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind North-North-East 5 knots Temperature -12.2°C

Ration Strength 27

Week 8. Monoxide poisoning

Monday 26 November 1973

Today Dr Tazieff, Phillip Kyle, Lin sparks and Murray Kidd got away on an outgoing C141. Coming in was Bruce McLauchlan Post Office Technician. Steve Warder and John Shaw were unable to get back from Vanda in time to catch the plane but at least managed to get to Scott Base. John Warriner returned with them.

We have been trying hard to get cargo to Vanda but continually seem to keep missing out. Today however Gordon got away an 800lb load. It should help.

With so many people away from Base it took almost the entire remainder to fill the ice sledges. However we got that done and also held a rehearsal for our short range rescue team. The radio problem experienced by Event 2 has been traced to a faulty modulator. Apparently their tent just couldn’t take the high winds they experienced. It’s stitching has been stretched, its poles bent and it is torn.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind North-East 14 knots Temperature -12.2°C

Ration Strength 21

Tuesday 27 November 1973

This morning I was awakened early by one of the Laboratory staff. At 0230 hours Janet Crump, leader of the party at Shapeless Mountain, had awakened to the sound of laughing and crying. She looked out of her tent to see Ken Blackwood and Russell Plume on hands and knees outside their tent in the snow. The temperature was below -20⁰C. She and Graham Rowe walked them up and down, dressed them and got them into sleeping bags. Because someone had turned the Scott Base receiver down it took her two hours to attract the attention of the mouse on duty. She did so at 0510 hours and asked for Shaun who organised a helicopter and a replacement field assistant. Both were on the way by 0700 hours. Ken Blackwood and Russell Plume were brought back to the McMurdo Hospital, treated and discharged.

In my formal statement concerning the incident I made the following comments:

1. We need a series of objective tests to determine just which are the most significant factors leading to a carbon monoxide hazard situation.

2. I was at fault in that my procedures required no positive check by the mouse that he could hear calling stations.

3. I should have been awakened sooner.

4. We need advice as to whether exercise is the best treatment for carbon monoxide poisoning and the result should be incorporated in our manuals.

We were able to get John Shaw off to Christchurch

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind North-East 13 knots Temperature -12.0°C

Ration Strength 21

Wednesday 28 November 1973

The DVDP geologists are bristling with excitement. They have found marine diatoms in the Vanda lake sediment, suggesting the valley was once a fjord and tending to prove some theories and disprove others.

I was at last able to get away to Vanda. I had intended to call on Janet Crump at Shapeless on the way and leave Ken Blackwood and Russell Plume there. Unfortunately bad weather closed in and the helo had to turn back to Vanda. It dropped Plume, Blackwood and myself at Vanda, picked up Brian Fischer, the carpenter, and returned to Scott Base.

NSF helicopter

Vanda lake ice is slipperier than wet glass but with the aid of old crampons Ian Curphey Vanda Leader and I walked the length of the lake to the drill site. The rig had gone to Don Juan Pond but I was able to have a word with one or two of the drilling crew. Meantime back at Scott Base the Survival and Rescue instructors had finished another course and returned for a few days.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind North-East 2 knots Temperature -2.7°C

Ration Strength 25

Thursday 29 November 1973

In the morning Janet Crump reported from Shapeless that the party had had further symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning mainly headaches. Accordingly I directed Shaun to bring the whole group out. Unfortunately, owning to the weather, the helicopter still cannot get to the party. Pinned in Vanda by bad weather I spent the day doing odd jobs for Ian Curphey, Vanda Leader.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind North-East 5 knots Temperature -9.6°C

Ration Strength 25

Friday 30 November 1973

Still weather bound at Vanda. I climbed halfway up the valley wall (2000ft) and then helped paint the new hut. On the radio I heard that Bill Johnson was back from Cape Bird having completed the hut cold porch. Chris Wilkins received a “singing telegram” from the Post Office on this, his birthday. John Earlie was delivered to Cape Bird by the same helo which brought Bill Johnson out.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind North-North-East 4 knots Temperature -9.5°C

Ration Strength 25

Saturday 1 December 1973

This morning Janet Crump, having had more troubles asked to be lifted down to Vanda for a few days. As snow had covered a lot of her work area this seemed to be a good idea. I think it was a courageous thing to do as she risks being charged with a lack of persistence and courage but lives other than her own are at stake. It gives me solid confidence in her judgment.

Shaun did his best to arrange the withdrawal but one of the three helicopters developed a transmission oil leak and was grounded. I became very concerned and got in touch with the officer in charge of helicopter operations, Tom Chider, to emphasise how important I felt it to be to get the party out. They made another effort later in the day and were successful.

In the meantime I was lifted back to Scott Base together with Chris Wilkins, the electrician. We arrived to find that a dog team race from the airstrip to the Base organised by Shaun Norman in my absence, was halfway home. On the sledge driven by the winner, Bill Whitley was Bruce Barclay, MP and Bob Miller, Chairman RDRC. Other visitors were Bob Thompson, Bob Clark, Victoria university and Colin Rudd, RNZAF. Also with the group were five members of the Italian party. Later in the evening Ross Cooper arrived back from Shapeless Mountain. The Base is now full.

Conditions at 0900 hours no wind Temperature -5.6°C

Ration Strength 38

Dog Team Race

Sunday 2 December 1973

We started the day with the usual late breakfast and then after morning tea took our visitors on a tour of the Base. In the afternoon they watched our field assistants instructing a para-rescue course. This included a parachute jump. We were unable to unite the two Event 2 parties owning to bad weather but successfully moved the Mount Crean party (John McPherson) to Aztec Mountain. The helicopter continued on a brought Rosie Kyle into the Base.

In the evening we held a function for our guests and senior people from McMurdo. The evening finished with a panel discussion which was much appreciated by those present.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind West-North-West 8 knots Temperature -4.8°C

Ration Strength 39

Week 9. Visitors and one of the husky’s dies

Monday 3 December 1973

In the morning we continued to show our visitors a further aspect of our Base (viz the maintenance and works commitment). At 1400 hours all but the Superintendent took off by Hercules for the South Pole. They arrived back at Base at 0500 hours in the morning.

In the meantime three senior Ministry of Works (MOW) officers had arrived with a view to familiarising themselves with the Base and its locality. They will be involved in the design of a new Base. Those concerned were John Rowe, Architect, Graham Upritchard, Mechanical Engineer and Gordon Reid, Electrical Engineer. Simultaneously our SAR instructors left for the Dry Valley area (ie Colin Monteath, Gary Brehaut and George Kendall). Group Capt Ian Gillard, a guest of the US Navy, came to spend a few days with us. There appears to be some problem concerning the behaviour of our NZ people connected with the Dry Valley Drilling Project. I am trying to sort this out because the last thing I wish to do is end up at loggerheads with these very helpful people. The Superintendent and I spoke with the Postmaster about his personality clash problem.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind North-North-East 5 knots Temperature -9.3°C

Ration Strength 40

Tuesday 4 December 1973

After about one hours’ sleep our VIPs were off on their Dry Valleys inspection trip. They are to fly by helicopter to Vanda Base, the Don Juan Pond drill rig site, Lake House where Event 1 is working and Lake Vida. In their absence we tried to catch up on chores. The dog lines were moved. The cracked stump on the Dodge Wannigan taken off, a shipment of Caterpillar spares was checked and stored. We were unable to solve the calor gas problem of the Italian party. Their own stocks of gas are in NZ and cannot be bought down until the annual “dangerous goods” aircraft comes down. American gas containers have non-matching fittings.

To my consternation the calculator given by Dr Torii to the Antarctic Division has disappeared from my plan cabinet. Worse, I cannot even be sure when it went as it was covered with outer clothing most of the time and I noticed nothing until I went to give it to Bob Thompson. I feel I must have put it away or perhaps given it to some member of Antarctic Division staff.

At about 2115 hours Bob Clark told me that Colin Rudd was ill. Both the Dodge Well Deck and the Landrover had gone to McMurdo and the Dodge Wannigan was under repair. I was unable to trace any of our Base staff by telephone so after ringing the dispensary I ran over the hill to collect the prescription. Whilst it was being made up I used their phone located Shaun Norman who had the well-deck took it off him and drove back. Colin had his first two pills at about 2200 hours.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind North-East 8 knots Temperature -8.6°C

Ration Strength 40

Wednesday 5 December 1973

A very busy morning. At 0600 hours I was awakened by the mouse with the news that an aircraft would be departing from the sea ice strip for the South Pole at 0800 hours. Passengers had to be at the strip at 0730 hours. I woke our three MOW visitors Graham Uprichard, Gordon Reid and John Rowe and with the help of Tony Atkinson the senior technician they caught the plane with five minutes to spare. Meantime our VIPs packed and left in a SnoTrac for Cape Evans and Cape Royds. They were to be picked up in a helicopter at Cape Barne and taken to Cape Bird but because of bad weather the helicopter had to bring them back to Scott Base.

The radio that was issued to them proved to have a flat battery in that it had enough power to receive but not enough to transmit. This was especially mortifying in view of the other mistakes made during their stay. Simultaneously our Italian party was prepared and launched by helicopter to their first camp site at Lake Fryxell. At least there were no problems there.

Field radio

Almost as soon as they were gone our dog handler Bob Newland found Ivak the youngest husky lying on his side unable to get up. He died within an hour and we are having a post mortem to find out why.

In the afternoon Ian Gillard and Rosemary Kyle were dispatched to NZ and off the same plane we welcomed Barry McKelvey an old Antarctic hand and Alan Humphries of ANARE. Phil Bellamy of Gough Gough and Hammer arrived from McMurdo to overhaul one of our Caterpillar generator engines. During the afternoon Bob Newland took the dogs down to the ski field and demonstrated them to a party of US VIP’s.

Ray Colliver sat his cooking exams and a number of us went across to McMurdo for dinner as guests of the US Navy Task Force. At one time in the Mess we had both our own and the visiting VIPs and also the crew of the RNZAF Hercules which was being turned around at the strip. Gary Brehaut and George Kendall reported in from SAR training.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind North-North-East 5 knots Temperature -8.2°C

Ration Strength 40

Thursday 6 December 1973

Today our VIPs were given a conducted tour of McMurdo and then went to Arrival Heights. Sad to say their vehicle broke down and they walked some way before our replacement reached them.

Colin Monteath has now joined the Italians at Lake Fryxell. Today Bob Thompson and I saw John Warriner about the Post Office personality clash. We also discussed the replacement of three drillers with Jack Hoffman. The driller’s contract is up and they are to be replaced by Scott Base staff. I took our MOW visitors on an ice collecting party to give them first hand experience of the problem. I think they are convinced we need a better system.

In the evening we had some US visitors and Dr Torii to dinner. During the day the Scott Base staff searched the Base from one end to the other for the missing calculator but without success. Alastair Watson has discovered that Ivak had a massive intestinal haemorrhage but does not know why yet.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind North-North-East 5 knots Temperature -7.6°C

Ration Strength 36

Friday 7 December 1974

This morning Bruce Barclay and Colin Rudd went to look at Scott’s Discovery Hut and then called on the NZ Army Loaders in McMurdo and at the ice strip. Bob Thompson, Titch Gibson, John Warriner and I discussed the personality clash between Titch and John. Nothing drastic will be done until after Xmas and in the meantime they will try to get along together.

Bruce Barclay and Bob Miller decided to go out to the aircraft for NZ by dog team. The rest of us went out on a borrowed USARP Nodwell. The aircraft was delayed on the strip and did not get away until about 1700 hours. Our VIPs having departed this is a convenient moment to list the mishaps which occurred just prior to, or during their visit.

1. Our failure to maintain constant listening watch during the CO poisoning incident.

2. The theft of the calculator donated by Dr Torii.

3. The issue of flat radio battery for the trip to Cape Royds.

4. The breakdown of the vehicle taking them to Arrival Heights.

5. The failure to meet them on their arrival back from the South Pole.

6. Our inability to get them to Cape Bird.

The Caterpillar overhaul is held up for the lack of a turbo charger.

Conditions at 0900 hours no wind Temperature -4.8°C

Ration Strength 33

Saturday 8 December 1973

Captain Davis USN, the commander of the Seebees and several of his officers visited the Base this morning. We were able to get Fred Szydlik and Alan Humpreys away to Vanda. Late in the afternoon Barry McKelvey and Gordon Nation got seats on a flight to the South Pole. At the same time a C141 came in bringing the caretakers Lew Kerr and George Madgwick and Bruce Jensen from the Post Office.

Event 1 commenced their annual trip around all the Dry Valley lakes measuring water levels. There were no other field party movements.

Our Post Office is a shambles with the new transmitters and teleprinters half installed and, with one Caterpillar stripped down, the engine room is just as bad. We have received our monthly tanker load of fuel and our last SnoTrac has been found to have a broken axle housing. We seem no nearer to finding a time to repair our damaged ice sledge.

As a consequence of the build up of maintenance work we have had to cancel the proposed dog trip to Black and White Islands.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind North-North-East 7 knots Temperature -6.7°C

Ration Strength 30

Sunday 9 December 1973

We had an early start to the day of rest. At 0600 hours Terminal Operations at McMurdo rang to say that there were three vacancies on an aircraft going to the South Pole. The doors would close in an hour and a half. I was able to get Alan Humphreys from ANARE and the two caretakers George Madgwick and Lew Kerr on it. Stuart Clarke, whose birthday it was, drove them to the air strip as his last late mouse duty before going to bed. We gave him his cake and held the normal ceremony later in the day.

One or two people went skiing but most of the section heads kept working. The overhaul of the Caterpillar engine has continued but it appears that the turbo charger sent from here to NZ last year for overhaul was kept in storage at Christchurch and not in fact overhauled. Bill Johnson is renewing the pipes to the Caterpillar exhaust heat exchanger. These were leaking into the lagging unnoticed because the rate of evaporation was faster than the leak.

I spent the day dictating this log, the Vanda situation report and various reports onto tape.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind North-North-East 8 knots Temperature -91.°C

Ration Strength 31

Week 10. A fatality and lessons learned

Monday 10 December 1973

On going in to breakfast I found the late mouse had done an inadequate job. Ross Cooper, the culprit, has now volunteered to do late mouse tonight as well. No helicopters could fly because of the weather. Caterpillar engine overhaul is complete and the engine can be replaced when the work on the heat exchanger pipes is finished. We received a visit from Spivak of the Wall Street Journal. He asked me whether New Zealand’s presence here was partly motivated by economic and political considerations rather than scientific ones. Told him I didn’t know. Mike Mudrey also called to finalise arrangements for the three we are sending to Vida as honorary drillers.

A C141 arrived bringing Peter Gill, Peter McNoe, Peter Ramsden, Gary Lewis, Tim O’Neil, Bob Park and Paddy Fenton. We entertained some departing helicopter pilots to dinner.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind North-North-East 20 knots Temperature -10.6

Ration Strength 38

Tuesday 11 December 1973

At 0745 hours this morning Cdr Bob Balchunas rang with the news that there had been a disaster in the Dry Valley area. He asked that we make two field assistants available and cut off all communication with NZ. I had Gary Brehant and George Kendall ready at our helipad in 10 minutes. I am unhappy about the way US people try to stop all communications whenever there is a disaster. I made it clear last time that I could not comply with requests to conceal information from my employers. It should be sufficient merely to withhold the name of any victim.

Today was a busy day for Tony Atkinson. Most of yesterday’s arrivals had work connected with the Laboratory. Nevertheless Tony handled the crowd with his usual unruffled efficiency. Another ice collecting party took 8 of the staff away for half of the afternoon. Late in the afternoon Gary and George returned. A man had been killed in a fall on Mount Baldr. He had visited one of his project sites and on his return somehow slipped over a 500 foot cliff. The helicopters could not reach him directly and our two men, together with a US doctor, having been set down 1500 feet below the body climbed up to it, moved it to a small shelf where the helo could put down one skid and load it aboard. After the exercise they made the following comments.

1. A rescue party should always have a portable radio and not rely on the helo radio. Since I was about to dispatch our men when Shaun appeared and gave them a radio he had drawn for them I must record his foresight and quick thinking.

2. The helicopter should have a radio with which to speak to the party on foot even when the helo motor is shut off. A porta-phone might suffice.

3. A signal mirror is handy.

4. The foot party should carry more than one smoke canister.

5. Stretchers should have “tie on” straps.

6. Ice axes and crampons should be carried even in the dry valleys (there is often ice under the shale on higher slopes.

We took an RNZAF crew on a tour of the Base in the evening.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind North-North-East 20 knots Temperature -10.6°C

Ration Strength 38

Wednesday 12 December 1973

A disappointing day. We were able to get our two caretakers and Maurice Conly airborne in a helicopter headed for Cape Royds but it turned back because of bad weather. Event 2 with Peter Blattner, Max Tunnicliffe, Mike Chapman-Smith and David Feary arrived back from Mount Dromedary. They had achieved less than they hoped because of unusually bad weather.

Gary Lewis was delivered to Vanda to check some of the electronic scientific instruments. Our survival and rescue group ran a one day course for a party of scientists involved in the RISS project. Alistair Watson, the Vet, now suspects that Ivak the husky died of an infectious disease. As a consequence we shifted the dog lines to new snow. Bill Johnson, rather sadly pointed out that this new job took 16 man-hours of his precious maintenance time. Tony Atkinson tells me he detects a rift developing between the maintenance staff and the Laboratory. Both groups are doing an excellent job and it would be a pity if poor communications caused any bother.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind East 15 knots Temperature -10.3°C

Ration Strength 43

Thursday 13 December 1973

Today the helicopters were all committed to transporting a party of US newsmen to various places. So we dispatched our caretakers and Maurice Conly to Cape Royds using a SnoTrac driven by John Fenwick and Barry McKelvey. The DVDP people found a couple of helicopter hours by means of which they got Chapman-Smith, Cooper, Colliver and Whitley to the drilling rig at Lake Vida. Stuart Clarke has taken over as Base cook and is doing a first class job.

We collected seven incoming people off today’s aircraft (Nigel Bingham, John Starr, Alex Wilson, Tim Healy, Chris Renolds, John Falconer and Bob Stanley) Colin Monteath arrived back from duty with the Italian party at Lake Fryxell with the intention of collecting some of their belatedly arriving equipment and rejoining them at their next Base.

Lake Fryxell

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind North-East 2 knots Temperature -21.°C

Ration Strength 44

Friday 14 December 1973

Today we received instructions from Antarctic Division to make substantial fuel savings. This is going to be hard to do as we already waste very little fuel. All the diesel that comes into the Base is either converted directly to heat as in the Waterbury heaters and diesel-becks, or is converted to electricity and used a light and power. We can do without some lighting but the fuel savings will be negligible. If we are to make real savings we must reduce either direct burning or electric appliance usage. The scientific and Post Office transmitters are major power consumers as also are the ventilating fans. Since we cannot touch the transmitters the choice narrows down to:

1. Manually switched appliances like the dough mixer.

2. Letting down the overall base temperature which will automatically reduce the power consumed by the fans and burned by heaters.

3. Reducing the use of water and the cooking stoves in the kitchen and Mess.

I have issued instructions to this effect which were less than enthusiastically received. A number of US newsmen visited the Base and also answered our questions. Rowe, Humphreys, Blattner and Feary left for Christchurch. Shaun Norman got away on a 24 hour trip to Vostok.

The Russian station at Vostok  (note the French and American flags)

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind East 5 knots Temperature -3.9°C

Ration Strength 40

Saturday 15 December 1973

We had a tremendous panic getting Alex Wilson’s party away this morning. With Shaun away at Vostok I managed this myself and, being unfamiliar with the routine made a number of mistakes. I did not personally check that Alex had all of his gear weighed and he hadn’t. He had planned to have two long fairly heavy boxes strapped to the skids but I was unaware of this and did not check that the pilots would agree and they didn’t. In the end we had to send them off less one man, Chris Reynolds.

A firm called Image Associates came for the day and took a number of shots including long sequences with the dogs. We shifted a lot of compacted snow from the front of the Base using our transients as a work force.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind North-West 8 knots Temperature -0.5°C

Ration Strength 38

Sunday 16 December 1973

This morning we set out to take Nigel Bingham up to Cape Royds to make tapes of the penguins and interview Maurice Conly. We also were worried that something was wrong with the Royds radio. We could hear them and knew they were all right but could not talk to them. Finally to show willing about fuel I planned to use the dogs. They need work and I had not been for a decent run with them. We got away at 5am and were at Cape Evans by 0900 hours. We had a long breakfast and went on to reach Royds by 1300 hours. We had not been able to bring one of the best dogs, Osman, because on attempting to harness him up by Bob Newland discovered he had a badly sprained leg. Of the dogs we did take three, Asinga, Merlin and Steve would only pull occasionally.

The Cape Royds party had counted the penguins (2163), accepted our replacement radio gratefully and hosted us very cheerfully.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind North-North-East 5 knots Temperature -2.7°C

Ration Strength 35