Week 1 Arrival in Antarctica

Tuesday 9 October 1973

Departed for Antarctica. Aircraft (C141) raised wheels at 0910 hours. On board were RB Thompson, Superintendent Antarctic Division and Gordon Nation, storeman with myself. We landed on the sea ice strip off McMurdo (after one non-landing calibration run) at 1430 hours. I was met by my predecessor Peter Frazer, who suggested a dog trip to Scott Base.














C141 Starlifter on the ice runway at McMurdo

The dogs fought once before moving and twice on the journey. They appeared to be poorly trained and out of condition. Eventually one dog was taken off the chain to save it from attack. I was then shown through the Base. It appeared to be functional and well maintained but lacked the finish that photographs had led me to expect.

After dinner I went for a walk up the hill to look down over the base. The gentle slope soon bought me out in a sweat and exposed my inability as yet to gauge the amount of clothing needed. On the way back to the base noticed a dog off its chain. Being not sure if this was normal, I mentioned it in the Mess and, to my chagrin, the senior technician, Phil Owen, showed more initiative than me, went outside and re-chained the bitch concerned.

Conditions at 0900 hours Bright sunshine, Wind 10mph Temperature -25.0°C

Ration Strength 14

Wednesday 10 October 1973

Spoke with Peter about various problems, most significant being possibilities of misbehaviour by my incoming team. Counted and took possession of various attractive, valuable or saleable stores. After lunch visited McMurdo and was introduced to various contacts in the US Navy, Military Air Command (MAC), and National Science Foundation (NSF). Discussed with RB Thompson, Peter Frazer and Jack Hoffman, various imperfections in a frame tent supplied to the Dry Valley Drilling Project (DVDP) and possible remedies. It was agreed that John Bitters should report to Jack Hoffmann, Drill Supervisor, for instructions as to how to modify the tent.

Returned to Scott Base and reviewed with RB Thompson problems which might arise with respect to:

  1. Staff misbehaviour at McMurdo or elsewhere.

  2. A snowballing social reciprocity with US organizations.

  3. Cadging by NZ staff from US organizations

  4. Dog care and training

Attended drinks and buffet laid on by outgoing Scott Base staff for outgoing US staffs and others. I spent the evening in the Leader’s office reading files.

Conditions at 0900 hours Fairly clear at first. Wind Easterly but veering to SW within 2 hours and increasing to 35 knots. Visibility 100 yards due to blowing snow. -20°C Weather cleared for the party. Wind South-East and 5 knots

Ration Strength 14

Thursday 11 October 1973

Morning showed 30 knot wind and poor visibility. Signalled Antarctic Division for details of availability of polar tents and with their reassurance was able to offer Jack Hoffmann of the DVDP two tents as standby shelter in the event that his frame tents proved unable to withstand the Antarctic winds. Discussed dogs and inspected dog gear with John Bitters. Continued to sort through items in the Officer-in-Charge (OIC’s) office.

Although the Starlifter (C141) bringing six of my team left Christchurch at 9 am the weather here refused to clear and it was forced to turn back – much to the disappointment of Major Peter Frazer my predecessor.

Attended an ice party in the afternoon. An hour’s brisk work by five men to fill two sledges. Most enjoyable! The work is hampered by the small ice fragments which shatter out along with the big lumps as the “cobra” pick bites into the face. They are not worth picking up and cause poor footing if simply ignored. If they are put on the sledge they can in time bond the bigger lumps into an unmanageable mass. The whole business needs work study. As we returned a full sized tanker appeared over the hill from McMurdo with a tractor driving behind it and attached to it as a brake. All tanks are now full.

I have been for a short run each evening so far. The problem is to get exercise without sweating.

Conditions at 0900 hours Whiteout Wind South-South-East and backing 15 knots. Temperature -15.0°C

Ration Strength 14

Friday 12 October 1973

I spent the day with maps and plans in the OIC’s office. Have catalogued plans and handed list of maps required for the season to the Superintendent. Had three short outings. First went to the ablutions block urine out-fall (the Pee Glacier) with a cobra bit and the assistance of George Turner, the outgoing mechanic, cut away enough green ice to get things flowing. At about 3.30pm Neville Copeland, the outgoing Postmaster, pointed out that one of our tracked vehicles had broken down on the ice. Neville and I went out and helped George Turner get it in. Finally Phil Southern, outgoing technician, reported that one of the dogs was loose and limping so John Bitters and I went over and had a look. It turned out to be Ivak, barely more than a pup. He had broken off his chain somehow and been bitten above the eye by one of the other dogs. John said it would heal without attention.

Film evening. I was able to take the first two reels only

Conditions at 0900 hours Winds up to 30 knots backing from South to North-East. Temperature -18°C. Visibility fair at times

Ration Strength Still 14 (unhappy Peter)

Saturday 13 October 1973

Day started clear with high overcast. It looked good for our incoming team members. In the morning I fought my way right around the outside of all the buildings, checking the tie-down guys and hatches. The base has taken its usual winter beating well. After morning tea, I helped John Bitters feed the dogs. Ivak is still limping and looking a bit sick. Chopping seal meat is a bit like chopping wood. It’s more a matter of hitting against the right block then hitting hard. After lunch we became doubtful about the chances of the plane managing to land, as visibility was down to 300-400 yards with light snowfall. However we went out to Williams Field and suddenly it materialized out of the snowdrift seemed to collapse onto the runway and then roared to a stop. Inside were Professor Tony Taylor, visiting psychologist, Shaun Norman Deputy IC, Bill Johnston - Base Engineer, Chris Wilkins - Electrician, Bob Grant - Mechanic, Tony Atkinson - Senior Technician, Ray Colliver - Cook and Stuart Clarke - Technician. They were delighted to be down and reported one or two spectacular moments in the turbulence on the way. After afternoon tea Bob Thompson held a discussion with John Hosiaux and Bill Johnson, outgoing and incoming engineers, and myself. It involved some minor changes to the works programme. Peter Frazer has finally got away. The handover is now in progress at last.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind North-North-East 15 knots Temperature -17.0°C

Ration Strength 21

Sunday 14 October 1973

A quiet day, overcast with occasional periods of wind causing a loss of low level visibility. Handover continues. I acted as house mouse to get some idea of the work involved. Drove RB Thompson, Superintendent to catch C141 leaving at 2100 hours. The incoming flight should have bought Garth Cowan the third base technician but he was not on it.

Conditions at 0900 hours Long still periods Temperature -12.0°C

Ration Strength 19

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