Week 7. Counting Penguins at Cape Royds

Monday 19 November 1973

Late last night the Royds party got in. They had difficulty in finding their way across the sea ice from Cape Evans in a light snowfall and whiteout. Shaun spent a good bit of the time on the radio trying to “talk them in” but conditions were so bad that they felt obliged to follow the coast all the way. Their SnoTrac had split a jockey wheel and they were only able to proceed very slowly. Nevertheless about midnight they pulled up in front of the hangar and wandered in to bed. They had counted about 3000 penguins, many more than the previous party but I was not happy with the wide differences between their individual results.

adelie-penguins new

Adelie Penguins at Cape Royds

During the day Tony Bromley arrived from Vanda. He had severe earache and Ian Curphey sent him out for treatment.

It was reported to me that the party which had proceeded to Royds with Colin Monteath had completely ruined a Nansen sledge so I held an informal inquiry. It seems that this type of sledge is meant for light loads and walking speeds. I had not warned Colin to limit either his speed or his load, so the fault is mine, if fault is there. I was unaware of the limitations of this sledge. I decided to send a third party to Royds (myself included) to make yet another count of the penguins.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind East-North-East 2 knots Temperature -6.0°C

Ration Strength 20

Tuesday 20 November 1973

My party to repeat the penguin count was preparing to depart in the morning when Jack Hoffman arrived. He had two problems. First he was anxious to check that the matter of replacing the drillers was in hand and second he requested assistance with his catering. I will report to the Superintendent and get Ray Colliver to Vanda at the first opportunity.

Our party drove up to Cape Royds in clear weather and counted the penguins (2175) returning to Evans for the night. Event 17 (Para Rescue) was moved from here to the Dias.

Later in the day Ian Curphey and Chris Wilkins, who were visiting a met screen, made contact with it. The Postmaster, Titch, is having trouble with the people from McMurdo (Kiwi and US) wanting to place more than one call per week and also out of schedule. Whilst my party was away with Ray Colliver, the cook, the Base catering was done first by Pin Reeves and then by Stuart Clarke. Both were excellent according to report.

The water pump on the No2 Caterpillar began to leak copiously during the night but the duty mouse detected the fault and the switch to No1 was made smoothly and in good time.

John Bitters severely sprained his knee when the dogs started unexpectedly with the trace around his lower leg.

Conditions at 0900 hours Calm Temperature -5.8

Ration Strength 15

Wednesday 21 November 1973

Shaun made continuous efforts to have Event 2 and Events 8/9 moved today before Thanksgiving Day but was unsuccessful. When the weather was good here it was poor where the Events were.

My Royds party awoke to falling snow and reduced visibility but nevertheless packed up to return to the rookery. The weather cleared, we counted again (2187) and returned to Scott Base by way of Turks Head where Warren Featherston hopes to take a number of seals. We counted 250 seals around the feature. Also on the trip we counted 77 Emperors.

Emperor Penguins copy

Emperor Penguins with Skua overhead

During the day an aircraft arrived from Christchurch with on it; Haroun Tazieff (France) Adrian Field (Waikato) and Paul Luckman (Victoria). The following departed, Derrick Hobby and Ray Pitcher (Antarctic Division) and Pin Reeves (previous year’s electrician).

During our absence we received a report that John Bitters might have to be evacuated to NZ but this later proved to be an exaggeration. In the evening Haroun Tazieff showed films he had made of volcanos all over the world. Base staff was most impressed and have asked for a return session.

My Royds party reached Base just after midnight.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind North-East 8 knots Temperature -8.2°C

Ration Strength 19

Thursday 22 November 1973

This being US Thanksgiving Day we were all invited to McMurdo for dinner. Only about three people took advantage of the offer but fortunately the SAR instructors arrived back from their para-rescue course in the dry valleys and were just in time for dinner so our representation looked reasonable.

The day was spent planning re-supply trips for Phil Kyle on Erebus, Peter Blattner (Event 2) on Dromedary and Janet Crump (Events 8/9) on Shapeless. In the evening a group took the dogs for a long run (about 12 miles). Shaun Norman, Bob Chambers and Bob Grant drove up to Cape Royds and counted the penguins once more (2080). They left at 1400 hours and were back by 2350 hours.

John Warriner flew over to Vanda with the Alpeco Radio and had it in operation this evening. It worked well but each time he transmits his voice is backed by an irritating whistle. I have been keeping the radio schedules in Shaun’s absence and have had it brought home to me what a lot of inconvenience is caused by interference around Scott Base.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind North-West 15 knots Temperature -6.0°C

Ration Strength 23

Friday 23 November 1973

In the morning we had trouble communicating with Event 2 again but finally ascertained that their weather was poor. Conditions on Erebus were impossible but Shapeless was clear so we were able to re-supply Janet Crump’s group and get John McPherson, Harry Keys and Rosemary Kyle moved on to Mount Crean. With that organised I climbed Crater Hill for exercise and thought I could see open water due West. I asked Shaun to check with the helicopter pilots.

In the afternoon the Canterbury party arrived. It comprised Paul Sagar, Leader, Chris Paulin, John Earlie and Joy Woods. Also on the plane was John Shaw of Longyear. The plane was due in at 1330 hours but suddenly at 1235 hours we had a call from McMurdo saying that it would land at 1305 hours. I was away in the Dodge in five minutes but even so encountered the usual problem of getting clearance to drive along the runway. I was to be met where the road debouches onto the runway but, inevitably, no one was there so I climbed onto the snow banks looked for the aircraft or traffic marshals and finding neither drove quickly along the runway to the tarmac. In future I think we will meet the aircraft in a SnoTrac.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind North-North-East 15 knots Temperature -12.2°C

Ration Strength 27

Saturday 24 November 1973

A successful day. Event 2 at Dromedary were re-supplied and are now in radio contact by voice. We have not yet identified their radio problem.

Haroun Tazieff and Sam Treves were delivered to Phil Kyles Erebus Camp late in the day. John Shaw just managed to capture a helicopter unexpectedly departing for Vanda and is now at the drill site.

I asked the Cape Bird (Canterbury) party to do one or two little chores around the Base like cleaning dust off the ventilation ducts. They are pleasant young people but their apparent inability to be thorough doesn’t auger well for their safety in any but a routine situation. I therefore decided to send Bill Johnson with them to check out the Bird Hut and see they were properly settled.

Cape Bird looking south

Cape Bird looking south

We held our usual briefing in the afternoon and about seven staff and visitors went for a run with the dogs in the evening. John Bitters is now in plaster and it is clear he will have to be sent home. I have still not received the doctor’s report but his injury occurred when he was taking a NZ loader and an American for a recreational trip. He had gone to the front dogs to untangle a lead when the dogs jumped away. His leg got twisted in the centre trace and he was dragged several yards injuring his knee.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind North-East 5 knots Temperature -10.3°C

Ration Strength 27

Sunday 25 November 1973

We had a customary late start but just at midday Phil Kyle, Haroun Tazieff and Ross Cooper arrived. Phil and Ross looked pretty tired after a fortnight of high altitudes in the -20ºC to 30ºC’s. Then just at 1400 hours we were invited to send the Cape Bird party to the McMurdo heli-pad. They duly reported in from Cape Bird 2 hours later.

We are getting a number of Americans arriving unexpectedly these Sundays and asking if anyone will show them through the ice caves. Somewhat naturally the glamour has gone off this for our chaps who have their own plans for Sunday.

Conditions at 0900 hours Wind North-North-East 5 knots Temperature -12.2°C

Ration Strength 27

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